Svalbard in the Dark: A Polar Night Adventure
When my husband first suggested Svalbard as a winter destination, I was hesitant. No daylight, temperatures well below freezing, it didn’t exactly sound like my kind of relaxing escape. But within hours of arriving, I was completely captivated.
Svalbard is unlike anywhere else - remote, silent, and strangely soothing. A destination where stillness becomes the main event.
So... Where Is Svalbard, Anyway?
Svalbard is a remote Norwegian archipelago high in the Arctic Circle, home to Longyearbyen - the world’s northernmost settlement with a permanent population of just over 2,000 people. We visited in early January, during the Polar Night, a season when the sun doesn’t rise at all.
But far from being bleak, the darkness brought a quiet magic. Glowing snow, deep twilight skies, and the surreal experience of living without time markers. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner all feel the same in the dark, but Svalbard still manages to shine.
Arctic Adventures to Remember
One of the absolute highlights of our trip was dog sledding with Green Dog Svalbard. We set out early - though in the Polar Night, it felt like the middle of the night no matter the time. Our guide, Nikita, an ex-firefighter from the UK, had recently relocated to Svalbard and introduced us to her team of powerful but gentle dogs, part Greenland dog, part husky. At first I was a little apprehensive, but after a few belly rubs and cuddles, we suited up in full Arctic gear and set off on our sleds.
I’ve never experienced cold like that before - sharp, dry, and utterly still. The silence was almost overwhelming. Just the sound of the sled, the dogs breathing, and a never-ending stretch of white all around us. It felt like we were somewhere truly untouched.
Later in the week, we swapped the quiet calm of dog sledding for the high-speed thrill of snowmobiling. It was fast, exhilarating, and gave us a completely different view of the landscape. My husband was convinced he was James Bond as he zipped across frozen valleys, while I soaked in the vastness of it all.
And then there were the Northern Lights. Unlike our trip to Iceland a few years back - where we didn’t see a single flicker - Svalbard didn’t disappoint. Nearly every night, we were treated to ribbons of green light dancing overhead. We spent hours outside, camera in hand, trying to capture the magic until we couldn’t feel our fingers anymore. It never lost its wonder.
Life in the Northernmost Town
In between our Arctic adventures, we explored Longyearbyen - the northernmost town in the world. Compact and welcoming, it’s home to a handful of shops (all of which we visited at least twice), some great places to eat, and a warm, laid-back vibe that made us feel instantly at home. Despite its remote location, we found it much more affordable than expected - especially compared to Iceland - and we never needed to book ahead for dinner, a bonus of travelling just after New Year.
Our base was Funken Lodge, a stylish and cosy retreat about a 15-minute walk from the centre of town. It was the perfect place to come back to after a day out in the cold - warm, comfortable, and full of thoughtful little touches. By the time we checked out, we were already planning our next visit.
A Destination for Every Season
One of the most fascinating things about Svalbard is its relationship with light.
Polar Night (late Oct–mid Feb): 24 hours of darkness, perfect for aurora hunting.
Blue Hour (Feb–Mar): Soft, deep indigo skies - a photographer’s dream.
Midnight Sun (mid Apr–Aug): Non-stop daylight, ideal for hikes and boat trips.
Autumn Glow (Sept–Oct): Golden sunsets and twilight return.
Each light season offers a completely different experience. We’re already planning to return in 2026 to see it again, perhaps with a little glow on the horizon next time.
Travelling to Svalbard? Here Are a Few Tips
Don’t underestimate the cold - temperatures can drop to –20°C or lower, and it’s a dry, biting kind of cold that hits different.
Insulated boots are essential – waterproof and warm is the winning combination. Cold feet will ruin everything!
Thermal layers are your best friend – think merino base layers, fleece mid-layers, and a proper windproof outer layer.
A balaclava is a game changer – it keeps the Arctic air off your face during long nights outside.
Safety first: wear something reflective – with no daylight during Polar Night, visibility is low. A reflective band on your arm or leg helps you stay safe around vehicles. You can buy them locally for just a few pounds - or pack one before you go.
Thinking of Your Own Arctic Escape?
If you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to stand in silence under a sky full of stars and auroras, or to truly switch off from the world, Svalbard might just be your next great escape. Get in touch, and I’ll help design a trip that fits you perfectly, from dog sledding to lodge stays and everything in between.
